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Jeff J
PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2020 4:09 pm 
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Where are the shims going to be? Mine was using the wheel pant brackets as shims which put the pants out of alignment with the airflow and the wheel.

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James Grahn
PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2020 6:30 pm 
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I believe you need to swap the wheel pant bracket and caliper plate. But I’m going from memory. I wish you asked yesterday as I had my leg fairings off.
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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2020 6:37 pm 
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I took my wheel pants off my flying T18 today, and they are installed the way you describe. Thanks for the confirmation. Since my pants were off, I hit a couple local grass strips today. Man, that's fun, I don't know why, but it is.


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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2020 11:08 am 
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The more I look at mine, it looks I should install things in this order: Wheel pant bracket, axle, then brake torque plate, which slides over and down to the base of the axle. Its hard to tell looking at mine. With the wheel on, its hard to see up in there.


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pacer18a
PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2020 4:26 pm 
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Ryan on my T18 N444DD the wheel pant bracket is up against the landing gear pad the shims are next and then the axle. The brake torque plate is bolted on the outside of the axle .

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fytrplt
PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2020 9:58 pm 
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What Dave said.

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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2020 6:51 am 
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Perfect. Thanks again.


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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2020 12:29 pm 
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Anyone have photos handy of the method/routing of their brake lines from the rudder pedals to the firewall? What size braided line should be used? I plan to use 1/4" aluminum line for the brake lines firewall forward.


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Jeff J
PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2020 1:09 pm 
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Since you are using 1/4” tube, -4 hose would be the easiest. Otherwise you need reducers to match things up. I have posted pictures of mine in other threads but I wouldn’t install them the way mine are done. It’s just not a very clean looking installation.

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68x74 Sterba Propeller

"The joke in aviation is, 'If you want to make a million, you'd better start with £10m.' " -Bruce Dickinson


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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2020 3:56 pm 
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I just saw your thread, thanks Jeff. I drove out to the airport and took photos of my plane's brake lines so I guess I answered my own question about the photos!


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ljkrume
PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2020 10:05 am 
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Hey guys,

I tried braided tubing for brake lines, but with constant flexing it had a propensity to loosen a fitting. Seems the braid overwrap resists twisting and makes the stuff less flexible. Sure, you can tighten the nuts good and tight but the action is still there. Try a loop in your hands and you can feel the twisting. Just wanted to pass it on.

I went with 1/4” teflon up to the firewall and ran some rubber hose over some of it to prevent chaffing, but it’s pretty tough anyway. Loops were sufficient to flex nicely and didn’t actually rub anything. Ahead of the firewall is 1/4” aluminum. I think it should be mandatory for engine heat and also heat down at the calipers. Put at least a half loop at top of gear legs for flexing and allow flexing at bottom too. You know calipers have to float and gear legs have ability to twist with the dynamics ever so slightly.. A loop isn’t necessary there but tubing still ought to accommodate movement.

Les


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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2020 11:59 am 
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that good info Les, as I was planning on braided stuff in the cockpit.


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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2020 8:33 pm 
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I got my seats, rudder pedals, battery box, pitch servo bracket, and my brake system installed. Also started in on the wiring. Slight bummer about my brakes, as both master cylinders are leaking where the piston exits the top of the cylinder. I bought my Cleveland brake system second hand, so I guess I'll have to try and get replacement parts or just buy new master cylinders. Aircraft spruce shows new Cleveland pistons are more than new complete Grove master cylinders!


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fytrplt
PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2020 6:59 am 
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Maybe just need new O rings.

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ljkrume
PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2020 10:14 am 
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Hi Ryan,

You say your master brake cylinder leaks out of the top where the shaft goes up to the pedal? Mine are Grove but I’ll assume Clevlands are made similar with a built-in reservoir on top. Is it too full of fluid? There’s no pressure where the shaft comes up and no seal, just a bushing with sliding fit for the shaft. If the reservoir is filled to the top it might leak around the shaft and bushing. Mine are filled to about 3/8” from the top. If you have additional brake pedals for the right seat, or if yours have separate reservoirs this would be all different.

As I understand with integral reservoir, as the shaft is pushed in the piston runs down from the reservoir into the submerged cylinder volume, creating pressure only at the exit fitting at the opposite end, or bottom, of the cylinder. By releasing it a return spring pushes the piston back up and out of the cylinder and into the reservoir volume above. Fluid naturally keeps the cylinder filled as it’s’ un-corked’ by the retracted piston. It’s an open system anytime you’re not pushing on the pedal. This also allows trapped air in the line to rise and escape.

Les


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