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Bill Williams
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2017 6:39 pm 
try using a NAS 1202/1203 screw. and you might need what they call a metal stop nut which is smaller than a normal nut to get it on the screw in the corner. Very few T18's where built using a Hi-shear rivets,


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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2017 8:37 pm 
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Thank you Bill.


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Rich Brazell
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2017 11:25 pm 
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Go to the old Forum and type in Shear Bolts . Bob gives a replacement for the shear bolts . I also put in my 25 cents worth stating you could use high lock bolts . ??? What Bill said would work also . The old Forum is a very valuable source for cooperate knowledge ! :o

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James Grahn
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 12:53 am 
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I have inspected several planes with nothing there. I don't recommend that. You might research AN 3 bolts.
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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 8:26 am 
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I'm always learning something new on here. Thanks for the info.


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Rich Brazell
PostPosted: Mon Jan 16, 2017 11:25 pm 
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I've flown with a few pilots with "nothing there !" :o Somehow they still make Captain ? ???

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Ryan Allen
 Post subject: Panel fuse system
PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2017 1:13 pm 
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So, here is my instrument panel fuse system for my project plane. I like the way it turned out. Much more compact than breakers. Still need to clean up the holes cut in the panel...

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backside.jpeg [ 799.22 KiB | Viewed 14215 times ]


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James Grahn
PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 8:10 pm 
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That's neat.
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Rich Brazell
PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 8:35 pm 
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Hard to tell from the pic , but are the fuses mini blade or full size ? ??? Where did you get the fuse block from ? :P

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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 8:45 pm 
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They are full sized fuses, but they are the kind that light up once they are broken. I bought the fuse blocks from autozone. I had to open them up do something to the metal tabs inside the fuse blocks so that the fuse blocks would lay flush against the backside of the panel.....but its been several months since I did the fuse block surgery and I cant specifically recall what I did now as I type this. It wasn't difficult though.


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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 11:28 am 
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the more I think about it, I didnt modify the metal tabs, I had to take it apart in order to cut the plastic housing. You can see the cut marks in the photo of the backside of the panel.


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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2017 8:05 am 
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Should I bolt on my wing center section before I cut my elevator push pull to to length? It seems like I should mount the center section in order to cut the correct length of push pull tube.....or should I just trust the length pf push/pull tube called out in the plans?


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jrevens
PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2017 12:14 pm 
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Ryan Allen wrote:
Should I bolt on my wing center section before I cut my elevator push pull to to length? It seems like I should mount the center section in order to cut the correct length of push pull tube.....or should I just trust the length pf push/pull tube called out in the plans?


Hey Ryan,
I think that most build that assembly to the dimensions showm, with no problem. Never hurts to measure of course. I built mine a little differently, using a cone that I machined for the front fitting that’s threaded for a heavy-duty ball type rod-end bearing with a grease zerk, giving a limited amount of adjustment in length.

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James Grahn
PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 10:09 am 
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If everything is built to plans, it should work if cut to plans. As much trouble as that tube was to get, I think I would measure everything first. Remember that the ends are scalloped for the fittings.
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Rich Brazell
PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 10:40 am 
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Cut twice , measure once . ???

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