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James Grahn
PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2016 11:01 am 
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jtwigg
PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 9:54 pm 
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Just a quick note to say that last weekend I started getting time to work on the project again. Took me 2.5 hours to drill 2 holes in the battery box to mount the battery solenoid! If you remember, N12055 didn't have a battery solenoid when I bought it - just a quirk in an otherwise really clean plane. Anyway, last year I asked the forum about where you guys mounted yours and I decided to follow the advise and I mounted mine to the forward-facing side of the existing battery box. Lots of room between the terminals and bulkhead, but not a lot of room to locate and drill the holes... Ultimately I made a template out of plastic sheet and then taped it to the battery box and drilled away. Lots of dust and grime in the plane from sitting in a dry hanger for 12 years before I bought it.

With the battery solenoid positioned here, the existing positive cable from the starter solenoid can reach the starter post.

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John Twigg N12055 SN.79 Pittsburgh, PA (KFWQ)


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jtwigg
PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 10:08 pm 
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Back in early March, I added a chain hoist into the ceiling of the basement shop. I would have preferred to use an engine hoist from Harbor Freight, but its metal casters would have destroyed the basement floor and it would have taken up floor space when not in use. With this setup, I can put away the chains into a little bag in the ceiling and put the ceiling tile back in place and no one will know it's up there (until the bag breaks and the chains come through the ceiling tile...)

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Just a quick test with a 160 lb generator...
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John Twigg N12055 SN.79 Pittsburgh, PA (KFWQ)


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jtwigg
PostPosted: Sat May 20, 2017 2:03 pm 
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Some of the work done this week.
* Had a great time Monday night making engine lift rings at Rostraver airport with some EAA (Experimental Aircraft Association) Chapter 45 buddies.
* I removed the prop and flywheel to clean them up.
* Installed the lift ring onto the engine.
* I want to replace all the engine mount bolts so I made a list of what's needed from the plans. Both my plane and the plans use AN365 fiber stop nuts. On my list, I changed them to AN363's and ordered those instead due to heat in the engine compartment. Is this the proper substitute? I did the same nut replacement at the top of the main gear A-frame.

Sorry that the pictures are out of order.


Attachments:
File comment: Trimming the ends of the lift ring after we bent it.
20170515_211729.jpg
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File comment: My friend, Rob, got the best results when bending the metal by first heating it and bending it by hand over a pipe. Those pliers got real hot!
20170515_213725.jpg
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File comment: Home-brew lift ring installed
20170519_084210.jpg
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File comment: One of our copies is shown (below the original) before trimming the ends, drilling the holes, rounding the edges, and making it look pretty.
20170515_215506.jpg
20170515_215506.jpg [ 1.51 MiB | Viewed 862 times ]

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John Twigg N12055 SN.79 Pittsburgh, PA (KFWQ)
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jtwigg
PostPosted: Sat May 20, 2017 2:42 pm 
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This past week I also found a safety issue with the length of the bolts that mount the prop extension to the engine flange. When I bought the plane, the prop and extension had been removed from the plane and a AN6H-13A bolt was with them that we thought was the proper bolt. However, I used an endoscope last week to check how far the bolt went into the flange lugs and was surprised that it didn't go in far enough. Lesson learned - don't assume that a bolt is proper even if it is provided with the assembly. I purchased longer bolts this week to try.

I purchased both AN6H-14A and AN6H-15A to see which works best. What have you all found is the best length where you engage the most lug threads without the shank contacting the threads?


Attachments:
File comment: The endoscope inspection revealed that there were not enough threads engaged with the AN6H-13A bolts.
20170430_212841.jpg
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File comment: You can see here by the discoloration how far the AN6H-13A bolt threads engaged the threads in the flange lug. I need to order 1 or 2 lengths longer. I ended up buying both to see which fits better.
20170516_204917.jpg
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File comment: As a double-check, I decided to see at what point the threads became engaged when removing the prop extension and prop. See the bottom bolt.
20170516_132440.jpg
20170516_132440.jpg [ 1.02 MiB | Viewed 860 times ]

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John Twigg N12055 SN.79 Pittsburgh, PA (KFWQ)
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jtwigg
PostPosted: Sat May 20, 2017 3:14 pm 
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I sent the co-pilot seat out to get the vinyl covering re-glued and cleaned up a couple weeks ago. Got it back this week and am very happy with how it turned out. Sent the pilot seat out to get done the same way this week. I'm keeping the same, original vinyl so I can get it back flying sooner. I'd like to have headrests, but they'll have to wait.

I asked the guy what is best to use on vinyl to clean the white area. He said to use "Bleach White Whitewall Cleaner". If I have to restore any of the orange vinyl he told me to use "SEM" vinyl dye.


Attachments:
File comment: The pilot seat before being sent out to be re-done. Note the "spare parts".
20170519_134835.jpg
20170519_134835.jpg [ 753.13 KiB | Viewed 855 times ]
File comment: The co-pilot seat after being re-done. It was in bad shape when I sent it out.
20170519_134818.jpg
20170519_134818.jpg [ 1.29 MiB | Viewed 855 times ]

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John Twigg N12055 SN.79 Pittsburgh, PA (KFWQ)
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Binder
PostPosted: Sat May 20, 2017 4:33 pm 
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Looking good!


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James Grahn
PostPosted: Sat May 20, 2017 10:54 pm 
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You are correct. AN-363 is the best option for the engine compartment.
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jtwigg
PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 12:14 am 
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This is the reason why I removed the engine. The rubber engine shock mounts were sagging really badly. Severe mis-alignment from years of age. I'm not sure if they are from when the plane was built in 1974, but they were the original Lord mounts (J-7401-3) specified in the plans on sheet 479. I don't see anything in the log books regarding their change-out.

Anyway, as stated elsewhere, I'm replacing them with Aircraft Spruce part # 08-03600 which is the beefed up version of their 08-3500, which is their equivalent to Lord mount J-7402-5. I'm so glad you guys are so helpful because, as a newbie, I really struggled to figure out what to get.


Attachments:
File comment: Front-view and side by side comparison of the new, beefier mount (left) compared to the old one (right). Note that the one on the right is the same mount as in the side-view image below.
20170523_000701.jpg
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File comment: Side-view of one of the old Lord mounts with years of weight on it resulting in sagging. The center of the small hole is approx 3/8" or more off-center.
20170523_000344.jpg
20170523_000344.jpg [ 1.29 MiB | Viewed 773 times ]

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John Twigg N12055 SN.79 Pittsburgh, PA (KFWQ)
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jtwigg
PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 12:40 am 
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Tonight some of my EAA Chapter 45 buddies came over and we pulled the engine and the main gear off the fuselage. Five buddies and 5 hours later...


Attachments:
File comment: Getting ready to lift and remove the engine
20170522_195216.jpg
20170522_195216.jpg [ 855.42 KiB | Viewed 772 times ]
File comment: Upward perspective
20170522_233456.jpg
20170522_233456.jpg [ 1006.26 KiB | Viewed 772 times ]
File comment: Nice perspective
20170522_223841.jpg
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File comment: Kinda like an exploded view
20170522_231847.jpg
20170522_231847.jpg [ 1.57 MiB | Viewed 772 times ]

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John Twigg N12055 SN.79 Pittsburgh, PA (KFWQ)
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fytrplt
PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 7:40 am 
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Now the fun begins!

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Bob Highley
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jtwigg
PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 2:01 pm 
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I'd like to know what is the best way to clean the oil and grime off the engine while it's hanging in the basement. Should I use a particular solvent/cleaner that you like best? I don't mind getting engine cleaner on the floor. I don't think I will use 100LL or kerosene because of the natural gas hot water heaters in the basement.

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John Twigg N12055 SN.79 Pittsburgh, PA (KFWQ)


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Rich Brazell
PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 2:25 pm 
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In your case aerospace simple green might be the best option , especially with the IED's in the basement (hot water heaters) . I don't like to use water on my engine (simple green) or any other water based cleaner . I move my AC out of the garage on the trailer and with the cowling removed (annual) I use Jet-A (JP) from a 5 gallon can propelled thru a Milton high pressure siphon sprayer nozzle (90+ psi) . You can get the Milton sprayer on Amazon for about $20.00 . If you want my HF sprayer you can have it for free . The JP removes the grease , dirt and oil from the engine compartment and leaves no residue . Does not promote corrosion like H2O and it is safe on the paint . It is also very cheap compared to other solvent based cleaners (even 100LL) "I love the smell of JP in the morning !" :)

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jtwigg
PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2017 4:22 pm 
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Hi Rich - Yes, the 100LL and water heaters would be bad for the house. Thanks for the offer on your HF sprayer. I'll let you know if I need it, but the cost of shipping it is probably the same as if I bought one, right?

I had purchased a can of Gunk Engine Brite on the suggestion of a couple guys in Chapter 45. If I went that route, I would rinse with water and then blow off any remaining water with my air compressor hose to reduce rusting. Do you see any problems with that approach?

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John Twigg N12055 SN.79 Pittsburgh, PA (KFWQ)


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Rich Brazell
PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2017 4:55 pm 
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Yes the HF was a joke ! They don't pick up enough liquid to really do any good . ??? The Gunk/rinsing route would work , but in my opinion it still leaves to door open for corrosion and rust even with trying to blow off the excess with compressed air . I suppose in your situation where you are limited to cleaning in the basement this procedure would be better than no procedure . :P

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