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fytrplt
PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2017 10:33 am 
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Heat is the issue with the side vent of the engine cooling. Your primary goal here is to insulate. As for sound, get a good headset.

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Binder
PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2017 10:58 am 
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fytrplt wrote:
Heat is the issue with the side vent of the engine cooling. Your primary goal here is to insulate. As for sound, get a good headset.



Ah, I don't notice much heat on the panels even being bare metal.

I don't have issues with sound but we aren't able to bring our dogs for a ride in the thorp due to the sound. If I pull my headset away from an ear to listen for engine noises it's painful loud even in cruise. If the insulation did anything for this I might be inclined to try it. I know the lack of exhaust muffler is the main reason but I'm not adding that boat anchor of weight to the thorp.


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Jeff J
PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2017 12:17 pm 
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What is considered loud is a matter of perception. I don’t really consider my Thorp loud because I could carry on a conversation without an intercom and/or ANR. That may be too loud for dogs though and is quieter than I am use to.

Mine is insulated all the way around in one way or another to the spar. The sides are done to the seat backs.

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Binder
PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 9:48 am 
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Jeff J wrote:
What is considered loud is a matter of perception. I don’t really consider my Thorp loud because I could carry on a conversation without an intercom and/or ANR. That may be too loud for dogs though and is quieter than I am use to.

Mine is insulated all the way around in one way or another to the spar. The sides are done to the seat backs.



Mine isn't close to that sound level. That's about like my Piper though. In my thorp I don't think I could handle more than 30 seconds without a headset. It causes physical pain in my ears. And I was on a 105mm field artillery line for my first 4 years in the army.


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Terry Adams
PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2017 1:47 pm 
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I had the same Maule tailwheel on my airplane. I believe either Ken Brock or Tom Hunter highly recommended replacing the single fork with a dual fork tailwheel as there had been incidents of the single fork breaking. I changed to the ACS dual fork on the standard Thorp flat spring. I can not determine from your tailwheel photo, but I also highly recommend compression springs rather than extension springs on the control horn.

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ljkrume
PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 3:02 pm 
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Heat on the sides hasn't been much of a problem with my Thorp. You might enjoy the extra room without the Styrofoam. Besides that, do you know how flammable that stuff is? I'm not fond of the bubble wrap stuff either, but for places like the firewall you might use fiberglass wool - it doesn't burn. McMaster-Carr has lots of "aircraft hardware" and here's some 1" lightweight, foil-faced, rigid fiberglass sheets you can cut with a knife:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#thermal-insulation/=1ajhhpl

Les Krumel,
Albuquerque


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jtwigg
PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2017 10:58 pm 
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Hi All, I'll be removing most of the insulation prior to the conditional inspection. But I'm not sure how to get rid of the insulation on the firewall without taking out the tank - any ideas? BTW - I did a burn test on a piece of the foam insulation that I took out already and it burns pretty well, Les. :(

I'll look into the tailwheel after I do the taxi tests and report on how it feels. I believe I have the compression springs.

My conditional is being split into at least two sessions - 1) while the airplane is apart, and 2) when it's all buttoned up and ready to go. The first session is scheduled for Dec 30.

I'm torquing the engine mount bolts this weekend on Saturday. I have the O-290G with the rubber donut mounts with the steel spacer inside. When torquing these AN7 bolts, should I torque them to the standard AN7 value - or just "snug" them up to where the steel spacer inside is snug? How do you define "snug"?

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Binder
PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 10:53 am 
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I had everything out of mine to move my battery to the firewall. There is little to no room behind that tank although depending how strong the glue is held you could possibly use a long piece of aluminum sheeting (in a small width) and get it under the insulation at the bottom and work it up to the top to pry it from the firewall. Then once all the glue is broken you could just pull it out. That seems tedious but I think it would work. I think it would be extremely hard to get insulation stuck back on with the tank in place though. I have maybe 1" between the tank and the firewall which would make it hard to get an adhesive backed piece of insulation up inside there then properly seated. The biggest issue would be not being able to properly clean and prep the surface.

If all you are doing is removing then I would use the above technique and it should come off with some work.

I don't know the answer of the torque but both A&P at my field (one which has built and restored many experimental and pre-ww2 planes) says they always use the given torque settings based on the AN bolt size unless there is a published number in a manual (such for specific engine bolts). I would think that mount would be standard torque on what that AN7 should hold although hopefully someone else in here has the specifics on the engine mounts. I would 100% use a proper torque wrench though.


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ljkrume
PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 2:22 pm 
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The rigid fiberglass board I mentioned is stiff, so you can just push it into place if you cut it to fit tight.


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