Thorp Air Command - T18.net

Supporting Owners, Builders and Pilots of the Thorp T-18 and its variants.
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Bill Williams
PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2016 3:07 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2009 6:26 am
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Location: USA
.128 minus .125 equals .003 less that the size of your hair, Yes you can A thirty punch will not go through a 1/8" but a 1/8" punch will go through a 30 hole. You use just the punch. Make a transfer strip using the spar holes as a template, then transfer them to the skin, "alla, matched hole tooling.
WHOLESALE TOOL carries the Roper Whitney number 5 JR. punch Do Not buy a cheap one from Harbor Freight
I have built several Thorps and a RV , three with hand held dimpler and two with a C frame . The frame does make it a little easier, but it comes with using it correctly. The sheet metal needs to be held perpendicular to the set.


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flyingfool
PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2016 4:02 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 06, 2014 11:01 am
Posts: 183
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Spare holes?

I'm not sure how to make a transfer strip from a spar cap. I can see how wrapping the skin and holding it tight and then using the existing holes in the spar cap as the guide to take a transfer punch and a hammer to mark the bottom of the skin with the transfer center punch mark.

is there an easier way to accurately do this?

I could in some cases use the existing skin. but I'm just not confident after pounding the dimples flat and marking the new skin that they would exactly match.

Again to make things easier, I think I have resigned myself to buying all new ribs. That way the new kit skins from Cubes come pre marked and I don't have to worry about it, EXCEPT for the holes for the spars which much match exactly.


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flyingfool
PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 9:23 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 06, 2014 11:01 am
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I finally got the entire wing skins off the right wing. This is the wing with the spar cap "ding".

I have some more photo's with a metal straight edge. I have yet to download them from my phone. I took a bunch so I will have to go through them to get the better shots to show the extent (or lack of extent) of the "ding".

unstiking the pro-seal on the nose ribs and spar for the wet wing was not as bad as I thought. A putty knife from the back of the spar moving forward towards the leading edge worked well. I did have to drill out and remove the flap brackets in order to remove the skin which I didn't originally think I would have to do. But the fit of the skin around the baracket was just too tight to effectively remove the skin easily.

The left wing I have all except the rivets in the main and rear spars. Not sure with the heat this week whether I will be able to remove this skin before Oshkosh. Depends on how much I could get done tonight! Really heats up thursday and Friday. and Oshkosh is next week!


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