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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2016 7:42 am 
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Just wondering if anyone out there has devised an easy way to reach the rear connection on the elevator tube in order to lubricate it. I'm getting tired of either trying to crawl back there through the fuse or taking the vertical fin off every year. I don't want to have to take the vertical fin off every year if I can help it.

On another note, I'm curious if people remove the rudder hinge bolts/flaps hinge bolts to lube them or just try and squeeze the lube in there as best you can?


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Rich Brazell
PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2016 9:08 am 
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Some folks have put in an inspection cover below the HS on the fus. to address that issue or some folks (me) during the build process split the cover that goes over the trim torque tube/HS pivot points . Once my covers are off I can inspect down in the "hole" and lube all necessary pivot points using my lube extension , w/o having to remove the fin , etc. I have been using Kroil spray for all my bearings/pivot points , flaps , hinges , etc. I don't remove anything unless it needs to be replaced (out of limits) . :P The spray is also great as a bug repellant ! ??? Not !

RB O0
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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2016 10:05 am 
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I have been trying to apply the Lubriplate, but maybe I should switch a spray oil like you. That would make the lube job much easier.


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jrevens
PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2016 12:52 pm 
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I haven't had to lube any of the bearings in the tail - stabilator hinge points, push/pull tube, or rudder for many, many years. I "re-engineered" those bearings, using some slightly undersized polished SS bushings and thin moly-filled Delrin plastic sleeves that I made. They are still as tight and smooth as the day I installed them. Most builders wouldn't have the patience (or be crazy enough?) to do something like that. If you're ever going to take things apart, I'd at least use a bonded dry lube, like Dow 321(?) for instance, that doesn't attract dust & dirt... that's just me. I do have access panels & holes in the sides also.

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Ryan Allen
PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2016 2:54 pm 
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I'm making access panels now. Thank you for the tip on the bonded dry lube. I'm going to see what I can get locally at Fastenal, and then order it off the Internet if necessary.

As always, I appreciate yalls input. It helps probably more than you realize.


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SHIPCHIEF
PostPosted: Fri Sep 30, 2016 11:28 pm 
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I opened up the area depicted by Rich, when I had trouble with the trim motor drive shaft. Now I open it for condition inspections so I can get lube on the elevator control and the trim jackscrew.
I plane to eventually replace the old trim indicator read switches & position lights with a trim rheostat and gauge from a Mercruiser stern drive boat system.

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EAA Chapter 326
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dan
PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 7:23 am 
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I inspect the tail controls every 2-3 yrs, and I find the lubriplate still there each time, it all looks like it did on final assembly back in 2008. I did inspect every year its about a 45 min task to remove the tail, I can look at my records but I believe the last time I took it apart was 2013. I will disassemble it next year to find everything as it was in 2008, with the same lube still on it and all will be well, the same can be said about the bellcranks, no wear and the same lube working just fine. This machine was engineered very well, and I believe the Lubriplate was specified for the bushings and such and I was pleasantly surprised to find out why, it stays put and does its job, Had I to do again I would have used a UHMW or a urathane or a 660 bronze maybe the stuff John used or somthing of that nature and totally eliminated the need for lube. Good job John!! Dan


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jrevens
PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 1:13 pm 
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Thanks Dan. I inspect those areas, but not having to disassemble and re-lube is nice. John Thorp chose one of the best options at the time, IMHO. It is still good, and I've heard of many having similar experience to yours. With a good fit, and depending on the environment in which you fly, the Lubriplate could last "forever". There are lots of different types of "Lubriplate" greases...I originally went to my local ACE hardware & aircraft supply store and found a can of Lubriplate "Aero". Gotta' be for airplanes, so it must be good stuff, right? It was too thin for this application. What John spec'd is good. I just went a little crazy trying to "re-invent the wheel". I think it was Lu Sunderland who had suggested a dry lube for those bearings... that's what got me to thinking and off on that tangent, I think.

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Arvada, Colorado

T-18 N71JE
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campipilot
PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2016 1:56 pm 
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So I am confused which lube would be best? I found many kinds of lubriplate on amazon. Is there a good dry lube lubriplate? Would one of those be best? Rich mentioned using a Kroil spray.


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campipilot
PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2016 2:05 pm 
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Is the Kroil more of a penetrant/loosener? Does it do a good job of long term lubricating?


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campipilot
PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2016 2:11 pm 
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Anyone use corrosionX?


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Rich Brazell
PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2016 3:22 pm 
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There are probably a dozen different lubes you can use . I suppose it depends how often you plan to go in there and lube ? Spray, paste , grease , film . Aero Kroil seems to work for me . It lubes , cleans and keeps moisture out . Much like Brill Cream . A little dap will do ya ! BOO YA !

http://www.kanolabs.com

RB O0
BaBaLoo


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