Thorp Air Command - T18.net

What is the procedure for removing the horizontal stab? Of course the rudder and vertical stab need to come off but after that once you've disconnected the trim arms and the push pull tube, does the 510 center balance weight need to be removed?

_________________
Bruce Finney
N18JF T-18C #262
Yelm, WA USA

I have to remove the weight on mine Bruce to get the horizon off. It's not fun or easy, it usually takes a few minutes as the space to work is limited......Dan

I was told you could R & R the stab with the counter weight installed . Not on my AC . It was not that big of a deal to install the counter weight after the stab was in position . Removal was also not a big deal . Some folks have access panels below the stab to make wrenchin easier , but I found I had enough room from above to make the deal . There is a little bit of Monkey motion involved to get ur done , but if you have small man hands like Dan's it make for easier going ! BADA BING , BADA BOOM !

RB

I was afraid ya'll were gona say that. My problem is that the last time the stab was intalled they used interference fit Hilok fasteners instead of AN3 bolts to install the counter weight. I have managed to remove the collars from 2 of the 4 but have not had any luck getting the pins out. If I could get the push-pull tube out of the way I might be able to get the stab out with out removing the weight. The biggest problem is that there isn't much room to work on fastener removal.

_________________
Bruce Finney
N18JF T-18C #262
Yelm, WA USA

I know this won't help in getting it out, but when I had mine out a couple of times, the easiest way for me to install it, is to
put one bolt in the counterweight so the counterweight can pivot, install stab, then put the other 3 bolts in. My counterweight is installed with an3 hardware.
Ron

The problem is with the side skins - especially if you have a good fit around the spar. I don't know if it'll work, but maybe you can get a little more clearance for removal if you can get to the lead weight & remove it (if it's installed with bolts). Also, something you might consider if you can't get the Hi-Lok rivets out- maybe you could trim the side skins, then add removable doubler pieces when you're through. Good luck!

_________________
John Evens
Arvada, Colorado
T-18 N71JE (sold)
Kitfox 7 SS N27JE

John, I hadn't thought of trimming the skins, if I go that route I think that I would make a new 580-10 fairing to cover the removed portion of side skin. I'll have to think about this one some more. My side skins are a really good fit around the spar.

Ron, I currently have a C clamp on one of the pin and have been soaking the pin with penetration oil, (aka ATF and acetone), appling some heat, letting it set and then trying to tighten the C clamp. So far have had no luck in getting a pin loose. My weight arm does not have the 510-6 stiffeners so if I can get one of the pins out the weight arm will pivot and I should be able to remove every thing.

_________________
Bruce Finney
N18JF T-18C #262
Yelm, WA USA

If you have some angle material laying around just cut the mast off. You could make a new mast in a few minutes. Then install it with bolts. If you don't want to do that, get a small C clamp and and press the hi-locks out. Use a socket on the head side. There is a special socket avaliable to remove the collars. http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/4,6759.html

I have success. John's suggestion of removing the weight triggered an idea, instead of removing the weight I managed to get the push pull tube in front of the 575 frame and moved to the side to provide enough clearance for the spar to clear the side skins and the jack screw past between the stabilator horn (510-2). Now I have plenty of room to remove those pesky hiloc pins. If the 510-6 stiffeners had been installed it would not have worked.

Jeff, I had a C clamp setup like you suggested but the stuborn buggers just wouldn't move.

Thanks for all the suggestions, some times it just takes thought to trigger another option. This is what makes this list great.
As Rich would say. BADA BING , BADA BOOM ! (the devil made me do it) >:D

_________________
Bruce Finney
N18JF T-18C #262
Yelm, WA USA

I was going to suggest disconnecting the push pull tube at the walking beam and that would allow it to be moved foward and to the side . BOOM !

RB

How did they get the Hi Loc pins/bolts in ? During the building process with a skin off ?

RB

Bruce, reading you post you say that you plane does not have the 510-16 stiffeners, I would consider adding them on reassembly, no make that manatory.

Aren't the stiffeners an SDR ?

RB