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 Landing Gear
 Repair of cracked A frame landing gear

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jtball Posted - 08/21/2011 : 02:17:43


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15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
James Grahn Posted - 10/27/2011 : 18:24:20
I wouldn't even stop drill it. It is not going anywhere. Just fly it!
fytrplt Posted - 10/27/2011 : 08:03:46
Remember, the part of the gear leg you are looking at is the "A" frame that holds the real gear leg. The smaller of the tubes is the actual gear leg.
leewwalton Posted - 10/27/2011 : 05:40:05
Dick,
I'm assuming you're talking about this ...




... from that point of view it looks pretty minor, I don't see the crack penetrating the gear leg. Obviously of it does you're looking at a major repair. If that's not the case I'd just get a 1/16" carbide bit and carefully stop drill it.
dickwolff Posted - 10/27/2011 : 05:06:10
OK. How do you stop-drill the crack front that is going INTO the material?
Rich Brazell Posted - 10/25/2011 : 18:25:58
Ditto. I don't see the benfit of "grinding out" the weld, if stop drilling will do the trick. Keep stop drilling until the weld is gone !

RB
leewwalton Posted - 10/25/2011 : 17:53:12
Dick,
Although its probably 6 one half a dozen to another I'd probably just leave it alone, stop drill the crack and then keep an eye on it. You could certainly argue that there is little or nothing to be gained by leaving it there but thats just me. If you look back in the NL there is a "repair" outlined by Jim Paine a while back if the crack creeps. There are a lot of thorps flying with that weld cracked.

Maybe post a good pic for the more experienced welders/gear guys out there to take a look at.
dickwolff Posted - 10/25/2011 : 16:41:28
I am considering the idea of carefully grinding out the cracked weld bead and leaving that bottom section of the gusset "open." Any thoughts?
dickwolff Posted - 10/24/2011 : 11:11:03
I recall some statement in a newsletter about whether or not this particular section of weld (on the bottom side of the gusset) was even required.

Has anyone tried leaving the bottom bead un-welded and if so, have they accumulated enough time to evaluate the idea?

I am considering the idea of carefully grinding out the cracked weld bead and leaving that section of the gusset open. (Of course, I would smooth the tube to a proper finish, and do a dye-pen check after to make sure I got rid of the crack.)

Any thoughts?


jtball Posted - 10/19/2011 : 03:27:48
I will ask the owner of the drawings, if its OK to put on the forum. The drawings are not approved as such but I use an Approved Person in the Sport aircraft association of Australia to incorporate such a modification. Who gives out certificates of airworthiness certificates for experimental category. I will get back to you soon.
dickwolff Posted - 10/17/2011 : 02:52:17
Just curious, where can one get a copy of the drawing showing the gear repair details? - DW
jtball Posted - 10/16/2011 : 20:22:10
That T18 will be back soon due to the aged plastic brake lines which I am replacing with braided hose,so I will have better look at the surrounding structure then.
dan Posted - 10/16/2011 : 18:48:07
Hi James, the welds look good. As Bob has said these gear legs somtimes end up with cracks in this area, I dont believe there is anything weak about this gear leg system, but if it gets banged right then somtimes these cracks show up. This is where the legs show some stress when they are loaded or over loaded. Watch the rest of the structure to make sure the stress point hasnt moved somwhere else after beefing up the one on the front of the legs. The Fillet was a little skimpy, you sure done a fine job......Dan
hurant Posted - 10/15/2011 : 18:52:11
In my experience, heat treating distorted the gear legs quite a bit. I used the bow and arrow method for straightening the gear.(Hydraulic jack and fairly heavy chain)
dickwolff Posted - 10/15/2011 : 18:05:57
What are peoples experience with distortion after heat treat (or re-heat treat)?

Seems to me as long as the part goes into the quench oil vertically, there shouldn't be much.
fytrplt Posted - 09/08/2011 : 03:37:43
I was one who used the stop drill method and it served me about 1000 hrs. until the crack finally went around the corner. I, too, had pretty but small, inadequate welds. I suspect taxiing on unimproved surfaces was the culprit in stressing the weld.

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